Baliyatra in Cuttack celebrates Odisha’s ancient maritime legacy, blending culture, trade, and heritage into one of India’s grandest river fairs
Manisha Priyadarshini Parija
Every November, when the serene waters of the Mahanadi shimmer under the full moon of Kartik Purnima, Cuttack transforms into something beyond a city, it becomes a memory, a celebration, a living connection to the sea and also a symbol of Odisha’s living history.
Few festivals in India carry the depth of history, emotion, and identity that Baliyatra does for the people of Odisha. The historic Baliyatra, literally meaning “Voyage to Bali”. Rooted in the ancient maritime tradition of Kalinga, Baliyatra stands not merely as a fair, but as a timeless celebration of courage, culture, and continuity. It transforms the historic city of Cuttack into a melting pot of heritage and humanity, a space where the past and present converge on the banks of the mighty Mahanadi, the lifeline of Odisha.
To understand why Baliyatra holds such importance, one must sail back to the glorious days of ancient Kalinga. The ancient Kalinga (modern Odisha) was a great maritime power on the eastern coast of ancient India. It played a prominent role in maritime activities in the Asian subcontinent and beyond. The Kalinga Empire had a vast coastline stretching from the river Ganges in the east to the river Godavari in the south. The prosperity of ancient Kalinga was attributed largely to maritime trade activities. Centuries ago, Odisha’s coastal regions were home to fearless seafarers known as Sadhabas. These maritime traders set sail in large boats called Boitas, venturing across the Bay of Bengal toward Bali, Java, Sumatra, and other parts of Southeast Asia. The overseas activities of ancient Kalinga were not limited to trade and commerce but were extended to political and cultural activities as well. In ancient times, Odisha’s ports like Chilika, Konark, Puri, Tamralipti, Palur, and Chelitola were famous on the eastern coast of India.
They carried textiles, spices, and handicrafts, but more than goods, they carried the essence of Indian culture i.e., language, art, and spirituality. These voyages created enduring cultural bonds that continue to echo in the traditions and architecture of Southeast Asia even today. Isn’t it fascinating that long before the modern concept of globalization, Odisha was already practicing cultural diplomacy through the waves?
The ritual of Boita Bandana, observed on the morning of Kartik Purnima, keeps this maritime spirit alive. People float miniature boats made of paper or banana bark, adorned with lamps and flowers, a symbolic farewell to their ancestors who once braved the sea. People also sing the song “Aa ka ma boi, pan guathoi, panagua tora, masaka dharma mora” which is a part of the ritual. It is both a tribute and a reminder that exploration and faith have always been part of Odisha’s soul.
When Baliyatra begins, the Silver City of Cuttack comes alive with unmatched vibrance. The riverbanks along the Mahanadi transform into Asia’s largest open-trade fair. Thousands of stalls line the grounds, offering everything from traditional handicrafts and textiles to modern consumer goods and automobiles. The festive air is filled with colours, aromas, and melodies, the smell of Dahibara Aloodum and Thunka Puree, the sound of conch shells, the glow of Ferris wheels, and the laughter of families who come from far and wide. It is where modern commerce meets cultural celebration. But one must pause and ask: amid all the noise, lights, and trade, do we still remember why Baliyatra began? Is it just a marketplace now, or is it still a journey of remembrance of the courage and vision of the Sadhabas who first taught Odisha to look beyond its shores?
Beyond its bustling fairgrounds, Baliyatra is a festival of art and heritage. Cultural stages showcase the depth of Odia tradition from classical Odissi dance to vibrant folk forms. Every evening becomes a living museum of music, performance, and storytelling. Local artists, schools, and cultural institutions use the festival as a platform to showcase their talents and revive ancient narratives. The fair thus becomes not only an event of recreation but also of education. Yet another question arises: how many of us attend these performances with awareness of what they represent? In a time when cultural entertainment is rapidly being replaced by digital consumption, can Baliyatra continue to inspire younger generations to take pride in their artistic roots?
Within the grand canvas of Baliyatra lies a quiet revolution i.e., the Pallishree Mela. Organized by the Odisha Rural Development and Marketing Society (ORMAS), this initiative gives rural artisans, farmers, and women-led self-help groups a chance to reach urban audiences. Products from remote villages from handwoven saris to organic foods, find new admirers and markets here. The Pallishree Mela is not just a trade fair, it is an empowerment platform that strengthens rural livelihoods and sustains local craftsmanship. Can festivals like Baliyatra, which were once symbols of ancient trade, become instruments of modern economic inclusion? Can they bridge the gap between tradition and progress by linking rural creators to urban consumers? The success of Pallishree Mela proves that heritage and livelihood can indeed sail together. It transforms nostalgia into opportunity — the very essence of what Baliyatra stands for.
As the years pass, Baliyatra has expanded beyond imagination. The fair now draws millions, becoming a vital contributor to Odisha’s economy. However, the grandeur has also brought challenges. The dominance of amusement rides, loud music, and mass commercialization sometimes overshadows the deeper meaning of the festival. Can the essence of a thousand-year-old legacy survive amid neon lights and brand sponsorships? Or is modernization simply the next chapter of a festival that has always evolved with time? The answer perhaps lies in balance. While progress and innovation are necessary, Baliyatra’s strength lies in its history. Preserving its maritime theme, maintaining cultural exhibits, and encouraging awareness among visitors can help sustain the festival’s authenticity.
The cultural echoes of Baliyatra are not limited to Odisha. Across Southeast Asia, especially in Bali, one can find linguistic, artistic, and spiritual influences that trace back to ancient Kalinga. Temples, dance forms, and even place names reflect centuries of exchange. The true moment of pride came when Prime Minister of India, Shri. Narendra Modi, during the G20 Summit in Bali (2022), mentioned Baliyatra as a symbol of India’s historical maritime connection with Southeast Asia. He said: “As I speak to you in Bali and we sing songs of Indonesian traditions, 1,500 km away from here in India’s Cuttack, the Baliyatra Mahotsav is under way. This Mahotsav celebrates thousands of years’ old India-Indonesia trade relations.”
This recognition was more than ceremonial. It placed Baliyatra on the global cultural map, reminding the world that Odisha was once a gateway of trade, diplomacy, and cultural dialogue between India and Southeast Asia. How many local festivals can claim such international relevance? The Prime Minister’s mention signalled that Baliyatra is not just a regional celebration but a chapter in the world’s maritime history. It reaffirmed the belief that India’s cultural diplomacy today draws strength from its ancient traditions.
Baliyatra is not just culture, it is commerce. The economic impact of Baliyatra on the local economy is enormous. The fair attracts over five million visitors annually, generating substantial income for vendors, transport operators, and small businesses. Hotels in and around Cuttack and Bhubaneswar operate at full capacity during the festival. The Odisha Tourism Department has increasingly recognized Baliyatra as a vital cultural tourism event. Efforts have been made to promote it internationally through digital campaigns and cultural diplomacy programs that highlight Odisha’s ancient links with Southeast Asia.
If promoted strategically, Baliyatra could position Cuttack as an international cultural tourism destination. After all, if Pushkar Fair in Rajasthan and Hornbill Festival in Nagaland can attract global tourists, then why can’t Baliyatra with its unique maritime story do the same?
Should Odisha envision Baliyatra not only as a fair but as a global heritage festival? Could partnerships with Indonesia and Southeast Asian nations lead to joint cultural showcases, reviving the same spirit of exchange that the ancient sailors once practiced?
These are questions policymakers and cultural planners must now explore.
Every fair has its flavours, and Baliyatra’s are unforgettable. The aroma of traditional dishes – Thunka Puree, Dahibara Aloodum, Bara Ghuguni, Gupchup, and Chhenajhilli, fills the air, drawing crowds to food stalls that represent the heart of Odia cuisine. For many, these flavours are memories of childhood visits, laughter, and togetherness. But beyond the joy of food and festivity lies something more profound: collective memory. Each lamp-lit boat, each sweet sold, each song sung is an echo of the past. In this sense, Baliyatra is not a festival of the city alone; it is the story of a civilization that believed in connection over isolation.
Every grand event brings with it environmental responsibilities. With thousands of plastic items used during the fair, the ecological footprint is concerning. Authorities have taken steps toward eco-friendly stalls and waste management, but more needs to be done. Can Baliyatra become India’s first fully sustainable heritage fair? Could floating boats made of biodegradable materials and eco-conscious tourism be the next chapter of this ancient festival? As the world moves toward greener practices, aligning Baliyatra with sustainability would not only preserve its beauty but also reflect the wisdom of harmony with nature that the Sadhabas once embodied.
At its heart, Baliyatra is not just about history or trade. It is about identity. It reminds Odias that their ancestors were among the earliest explorers of the Indian Ocean, courageous, skilled, and forward-looking. It is a celebration of openness, curiosity, and the human spirit of exploration. As Odisha strides into a digital, interconnected era, festivals like Baliyatra stand as gentle reminders: that our roots are global, our stories are timeless, and our values of resilience and inclusivity are what make us who we are.
Isn’t it remarkable that a tradition born out of ancient voyages continues to define the cultural compass of a modern state?
Baliyatra endures because it is not confined to religion or commerce; it is about remembrance, of courage, curiosity, and connection. The sight of thousands of glowing boitas floating on the river under the full moon captures an emotion that transcends centuries. It is an affirmation that Odisha has always looked outward, embracing the world while staying rooted in its identity. As globalization reshapes cultural practices, festivals like Baliyatra remind us that progress need not mean forgetting the past. On the contrary, it is our traditions that give us direction, much like the stars once guided the Sadhabas across the ocean.
As the fair concludes and the boats disappear into the shimmering waters of the Mahanadi, the essence of Baliyatra lingers. It is a festival that reminds us that Odisha’s story is not just one of temples and art, but also of sailors, dreamers, and explorers who dared to navigate the unknown. Baliyatra is more than an event; it is a philosophy. It teaches that prosperity lies in openness, that identity is strengthened through exchange, and that traditions, when nurtured, never fade. As long as the people of Odisha continue to set afloat their tiny boitas every Kartik Purnima, the spirit of Baliyatra, the spirit of courage and connection, will forever sail on.
(The writer studies Communication at Ravenshaw University. The views expressed are personal.)